| Things to do |
| BEACHES |
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| South Zone Beaches |
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There are five main beaches in the South Zone (see below). On Sundays the main street along the beaches closes to traffic and locals come out to stroll, roller blade, ride bikes, and hang with friends. Note that topless bathing is illegal. Beer, soda and snacks are available at kiosks all along the beaches. The beach is dotted with numbered lifeguard stations called postos. Posto 3, in front of the Copacabana Palace, is where you'll find the greatest cluster of tourists. Petty thieves hang here, so watch your stuff. Walking southwest along the beach, near Posto 6, you'll find a rock jetty called Arpoador. The next beach is Ipanema, which begins with a gay section and Posto 9 for the tragically cool. A ten-minute walk down the beach brings you to Leblon: This is mostly locals. Beware of the surf and undertow along all beaches. |
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| RESTAURANTS |
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| Non-stop meat |
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| The churrascaria (choo-rah-scah-ree-ah) is Brazil’s answer to the steakhouse and omnipresent in Rio’s neighborhoods . Churrasco is the cooking style, which translates roughly from the Portuguese for 'barbecue'. Distinctly a South American style rotisserie, it owes its origins to the fireside roasts of the gauchos of southern Brazil centuries ago. In modern restaurants, rodizio service is typically offered. Passadores (meat waiters) come to your table with knives and a skewer, on which are speared various kinds of meat, be it beef, pork, filet mignon, lamb, chicken, duck, ham (and pineapple), sausage, fish, or any other sort of local cut of meat. In most parts of Brazil, the churrasco is roasted with charcoal. Many places give you a signal card on your table for the passadores: green = bring it on. Red = give me a rest. Of course, there are other types of restaurants but the churrascaria is a must to capture the flavor of Rio. |
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| PLATAFORMA |
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| Made for tourists - but still one of the best shows in town. |
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An institution in Leblon. OK it does cater almost exclusively to tourists, but even the locals admit its a great show. You’ll see all types of Brazilian samba, capoeira and other dances along with incredible costumes and music. You can have dinner or just drinks with the show. Admission is 130 BRL (around $65 US per person) but for an extra 10 BRL ($5 US) you can include dinner!
Rua Adalberto Ferreira, 32
Leblon
Rio de Janeiro
22441-040
RJ |
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| CHRISTO |
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| Now one of the Seven Wonders of the World |
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No trip to Rio is complete with a visit to Christo. 2330 ft (710 m) above the city Christo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) keeps vigil. The statue is situated on the peak of Corcovado hill and is 100 feet tall (30 m) atop a 20 ft pedestal with a 100 ft arm span. Stone for the monument was quarried from Malmö, Sweden! Workers began transporting the stone and other building materials in 1922. The statue was assembled at the top and officially opened on 12 October 1931. There is a red train that runs to the top of the hill every 30 minutes. Several helicopter tours are also offered.
Designed by Brazilian Heitor da Silva Costa and created by French sculptor Paul Landowski the statue was voted on the of the seven wonders of the world in 2007. |
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| SUGAR LOAF |
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| Getting high in Rio |
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| Along with Christo, this is Rio's most recognizable landmark. Sugarloaf Mountain (in Portuguese, Pão de Açúcar), is a peak situated at the mouth of Guanabara Bay on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic Ocean. Rising 396 meters (1,299 ft) above sea-level, its name is said to refer to its resemblance to the traditional shape of concentrated refined loaf sugar. However, the Cariocas have several explanations for the name including that the name comes from Pau-nh-acuqua (“high hill”) in the Tupi-Guarani language of the indigenous Tamoios. The mountain is only one of several imposing granite and quartz peaks that dominate the city's skyline. A cable car runs along a 1400-meter route between the peaks of Babilônia and Urca every half hour. We suggest taking a nature walk along the scenic Pista Cláudio Coutinho at the base of Urka by Praia Vermelha before heading to the nearby cable car terminal. |
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| FORTE DE COPACABANA |
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| Great views, nice seaside cafe and history too! |
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| One of the best places in Rio to relax on a sunny afternoon and take in the sea views. Built on the eve of World War I by the German arms-maker Krupp, Copacabana Fort boasts walls of reinforced concrete 12m (39 ft.) thick. They protect a gigantic cannon (305mm) that could fire a shell 14 miles out to sea. The army has done an excellent job presenting the interior as it was when it was a working bastion. Today its a great place to sit by the sea, enjoy a bottle of wine and some lunch at Café do Forte overlooking Copacabana beach. The cafe is open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 8pm (tel. 021/2247-8994). To enter the fort you must pay the R$3 (US$1.25) visitor fee at the fort entrance. |
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| DOWNTOWN |
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| Downtown offers a beautiful mix of architectural styles |
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| A blend of modern and colonial architecture, downtown Rio is buzzing with activity. Downtown is the historic centre of the city, as well as its financial centre. Its epicenter is Carioca square. Sites of interest include the Paço Imperial, built during colonial times to serve as a residence for the Portuguese governors of Brazil; many historic churches, such as the Candelária Church, the colonial Cathedral and the modern-style Rio de Janeiro Cathedral. Around the Cinelândia square there are several landmarks of the Belle Époque of Rio, such as the Municipal Theatre and the National Library building. While you are downtown, don’t forget to check out Rio’s premier cafe Confeitaria Colombo. |
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| SANTA TERESA |
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| Take the cable car from Downtown to Santa Teresa |
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| Santa Teresa is the name of a hilltop neighborhood above the centre of Rio. Its famous for its winding, narrow streets, views and local charm. The Santa Teresa tram (bondinho) is the only one in Rio - and the best way to get there. The ride starts in the city centre, near the Largo da Carioca square, crosses the old aqueduct at Lapa and goes through the picturesque streets of the neighborhood. The ride offers wonderful views of the city as it climbs up the hill with locals precariously hanging off all sides (you’re only charged if you take a seat). Santa Teresa ceased being an upper class neighborhood long ago, but it has been revived as an artistic hotspot. It is home to several art studios, galleries, restaurants and bars. |
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| ESCADARIA SELARON |
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| Sean & Selaron |
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| The fist time we came across Selaron I was walking down from Santa Teresa when I came upon a beautiful mosaic staircase. I saw a guy standing around in his bathing suit and asked him if the steps had a name. He said “Escadaria Selaron” We began talking and I realized it was him. He is a Chilean artist who (after working in over 50 countries) moved to this neighborhood in the 80’s. Wanting to improve things he began work on the dingy staircase that passes by his front door. He says it is a tribute to the Brazilian people. He is proud that the stairs have been features in numerous photo shoots and videos. He funds the project himself and through the sale of pregnant lady portraits (don’t ask cuz he won’t say why he has painted over 25,000 portraits of the same pregnant woman other than “personal problems”). Do your part - bring tiles! Or send your tiles to: Selaron (Pinto Chileno), Escadaria Selaron, No. 24, CEP 20241-120 Santa Tereza, Rio de Janeiro Brazil |
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| LAPA |
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| The old viaduct (now the trolly bridge to Santa Teresa) is the center piece of Lapa |
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| After you pay Selaron a visit and drop off your tiles, why not walk down the hill a bit and take a break in Lapa. Lapa is dominated by the Arcos de Lapa, a giant white aqueduct build in 1723. The dilapidated neighborhood has seen better times, but it still has its own brand of charm. By day this place is fairly quiet. After midnight it is a party riot. Thousands of bar hoppers cram the streets and push-cart cantinas selling 50 cent caipirinhas. It can be a bit overwhelming to the uninitiated. I suggest checking it out around sunset while there are still commuters returning home from work on the streets. Close to where the street crosses under the old aqueduct you will find a sidewalk restaurant and bar called Carlitos that serves up an amazing meal out of a tiny kitchen behind the bar. Nothing fancy but a great place to soak up the local color and chopp. By the way if the albino artsy looking guy offers to draw your picture, you may want to pass. |
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| BOTANICAL GARDEN |
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| Lots to see even if you're not into botany |
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| Rio de Janeiro's Botanical Garden was created on June 13, 1808 by Dom João VI - prince regent at that time - originally for the acclimatization of spices like nutmeg, pepper and cinnamon that were imported from the Western Indies. Only in 1822 the Garden was open for public visitation. To the left you see the most well-known symbol of the park; The Royal Palms. These trees were originally reserved for the royal family only. All palms are originated from a single tree, the Palma Mater (that was tragically destroyed by a lightning recently). The Botanical Gardens are open everyday from 8 am to 5 pm. Entrance fee: R$ 4. There is something for everyone here. Erika’s favorite are the orchid house and water lilies. I’m partial to the house of carnivorous plants and the ever present wild monkeys that are always scurrying around over head. |
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| MARACANA STADIUM |
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| Home to famous footballer's footprints and the site of the 2014 world cup! |
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| I’m not much of a soccer fan but I was thrilled to discover I have exactly the same shoe size as Pele. His is just one of several soccer legends who have left their mark on Maracanã Stadium. Owned by the Rio de Janeiro State Government, it is named after the Maracanã neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro. It was opened in 1950 to host the FIFA World Cup. Since then, it has mainly been used for football matches between the biggest football clubs in Rio de Janeiro, including Flamengo, Botafogo, Fluminense and sometimes the Vasco da Gama. It has also hosted a number of concerts and other sporting events. Although the crowd at the deciding game of the 1950 FIFA World Cup was 210,000, the stadium officially limits admission to 95,000 spectators today. In 1988, Tina Turner, during her "Break Every Rule Tour", set the World-Record for the biggest paying audience ever assembled by drawing a crowd of 186,000 fans to the stadium for a one show alone. |
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| SAMBA SCHOOLS |
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| Erika's Samba School |
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| The Samba schools (Escolas de samba in Portuguese) are samba clubs organized in the early half of the 20th century in Rio. They are neighborhood associations that put on spectacular Carnival parades. Most neighborhoods in Rio have one. They practice all year and show their stuff during Rio’s famous carnival in February when they compete. The most spectacular parade takes place in the Rio de Janeiro Sambadrome. The schools parade down a lane lined with grandstands, thousands of members per school dressed in coordinated costumes, dancing a rehearsed samba routine to original music. Each school's presentation has a central theme, such as a historical event, a famous person or a native Brazilian legend. The samba song must be developed around the theme, and the parade organized by each school must detail the theme through costumes, paintings or papier-mache sculpture. The best performance wins. |
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| NITEROI |
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| Niterói's most famous building and art museum. |
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| From downtown you can take a boat to Niteroi and escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Seven miles from Rio, Niteroi is the only Brazilian city to have been founded by an indigenous Brazilian. It’s crown jewel is the UFO-like contemporary art museum. Designed in the early 1990’s by Brazil’s most acclaimed architect, Oscar Niemeyer the MAC-Niterói is 16 meters high; its cupola has a diameter of 50 meters with three floors. The museum projects itself over Boa Viagem (“Bon Voyage,” “Good Journey”), the 817-square meter reflecting pool that surrounds the cylindrical base “like a flower,” in the words of Niemeyer. The gallery offers stunning views of Guanabara Bay, Rio de Janeiro, and Sugarloaf Mountain. Before you leave stop by “Tio Coto” for lunch. |
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| SAFETY IN RIO IS DIFFERENT |
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| If you see these guys - don't stick around |
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Like any big city Rio has its share of crime so you have to be aware of it. Having said that I’ve spent more than 100 days in Rio over the past four years and have never had any problem. None. Rio’s people are among the kindest and most easygoing you will encounter anywhere. All the same, a few words on safety are in order.
Rio is one of the world’s most densely populated cities. The well off and the abject poor live, swim, sun and drink side by side. They have learned how to coexist. You will be at a disadvantage in this regard. No matter what you do you will stand out as tourist - loud and clear. As such you will be perceived by the bandits as rich and vulnerable target.
You can even the playing field by following the ten tips on the next page and by understanding that the criminal element in Latin America exists in an entirely different context than it does in the US or EU. Understanding this context is key to keeping safe.
The main differences related to crime are:
- Life is cheap. Whether its from desensitizing or desperation, the fact remains that criminals are more inclined to use violence to reach their objective - even for trivial things (with 80 murders a week Rio beats Bagdad for casualties).
- The chances of getting caught for a violent crime are slim (less than 3% of murders are even investigated).
- The society is polarized between very well-off and the very poor.
- Both rich and poor live in close proximity.
- The poverty is abject which fuels a nothing-to-lose desperation.
- Guns are easy to come by.
- The poverty is centered in the favelas which are widespread through all parts of Rio
- The police do not patrol the favelas. Favelas are lawless, run entirely by the local gang leaders who rule their favela with absolute authority.
- Drugs are prevalent and the gangs and police who run the drug rackets are ruthless and very powerful.
- Corrupt police, military and government officials are the rule not the exception.
So do not interpret situations as you would at home. If you see a bunch of people on the beach who look like extras from an MTV hip-hop video - steer clear they are the real deal. And if you ever come across the civil police (pictured above) DO NOT hang around to see what’s happening. Calmly clear the area as fast as you can and don’t look back. They are hunting gang members and will open fire even on a crowded street. They have a broad definition of acceptable collateral damage that includes shooting civilians who get in their way (Rio police shoot 4 people dead a day on average and wound many more). |
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| SAFETY - TEN TIPS |
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| Beach banditos are often young mischievous boys |
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1. Jewelry - Leave it at home. Even cheap fake jewelry. Bandits don’t know the difference. If its shiny you will attract their attention. Do not bring your diamond wedding ring to Rio. Get a gold band instead (that’s what the locals wear). If you wear a watch be sure it looks cheap.
2. Decoy Wallet - Keep your real wallet with your drivers license etc... locked in a safe in your room. Buy a cheap wallet. Keep $100 US plus whatever Brazilian money you need for the day. It must be convincing so make it look real by including some easily replaceable ID and a credit card that has limited liability for fraud. If confronted hand it over.
3. Money-belt - Get a belt with a secret compartment for money. Keep one or two hundred dollars in there for emergency only. Never take off your money belt in public.
4. Camouflage - Rio is causal. See how the locals dress on the street, in the bars, on the beach then dress the same to help you blend in. Leave your national costume at home. Do not wear clothes with designer labels on them. The only one they will impress are the bandits.
5. Technology - Leave you SLR at home and bring your point and shoot instead. Keep your camera concealed until you are about to take your picture then put it away again after. Do not have it dangling from your wrist or neck. Same for your cell phone.
6. Transportation - The subway is OK during the day. Do not take the bus. Cabs are cheap. But be selective. It is best to call a service (Taxi Rio 25 87 87 87 use Erika’s code to Identify yourself #33663. They don’t speak English). They will send a car and give you the car number pained on the car. Be sure the number matches the car you get into.
7. Bad Areas - Do not be in the downtown area after dark. Stick to the South Zone. Stay away from the favelas day or night. At night keep in well lit areas with people around.
8. Hos and Cons - Copacabana is a mecca for prostitutes. Especially the Help Disco. Avoid it. The prostitutes won’t bother you but do not engage them in conversation. Drugged tourists are easier to rob so watch your drink in clubs. Con artists work the beach in teams so be aware if someone is distracting you in a club or on the sidewalk.
9. Police - The police are corrupt. They probably will not hassle you if you are in a tourist area. But if you do have a problem with the law do not offer a bribe. If they want one they will ask for a tip (cervejinha). Pay it. You have no recourse.
10. Beach - Assume that anything left on the sand while you are swimming will be stolen. Like the black fanny pack featured in the photos to the left. |
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| MORE INFO |
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| One of the best sites for info on Rio |
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 www.ipanema.com
| | Go to www.ipanema.com for everything you need to know about Rio. Lots of up-to-date insider tips and info. |
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